Carlos Cristobal
12 min.
The BMW R1250GS Adventure beneath me thrums with mechanical intensity, its boxer engine pulsing like a mechanical heartbeat against the pre-dawn chill of Barcelona's outskirts. The Mediterranean lies behind us now, a shimmer of silver in the rear-view mirrors, as our small group of riders points our front wheels toward the looming shadows of the Pyrenees. The journey ahead promises 1,200 kilometers of Spain's most challenging terrain – from ancient Roman roads to mountain passes where eagles soar below your boots.
The Costa Brava Farewell
Dawn breaks over the Costa Brava like liquid gold, painting the limestone cliffs in shades of amber and rose. The coastal road north from Barcelona presents its first technical challenge: a series of switchbacks carved into the cliff face, each turn requiring precise throttle control and unwavering focus. The air here carries the sharp scent of pine mixed with sea salt, a sensory farewell to the Mediterranean as we climb higher into the Catalonian highlands.
Rider's Note: The C-31 coastal road presents deceptive surface changes after rainfall – dark patches of perpetual dampness cling to the shaded corners where limestone seepage creates treacherous microclimate zones. Watch for local drivers who attack these corners with generations of muscle memory you haven't earned yet. The payoff comes at kilometer marker 67, where a small unmarked gravel turnout offers the most spectacular sunrise vista of the entire journey. Arrive before 7 AM to experience the coastal fog banks rolling in like liquid nitrogen across the water.
Our first coffee stop comes in the medieval town of Besalú, where a 12th-century Romanesque bridge stands guard over the Fluvià River. The stone arch spans the water like a time portal, its weathered cobblestones telegraphing centuries of history through our suspension systems. Local riders gather at a corner café, their machines ranging from vintage Ducatis to modern adventure bikes, all sharing knowing nods at the dust on our panniers.
Rider's Note: Café La Catalana at the bridge's northern end serves the region's strongest espresso, essential fuel for what lies ahead. Their backroom houses an impromptu motorcycle museum – strike up a conversation with Miguel, the owner, and he'll show you his collection of vintage Bultaco engines, each disassembled with surgical precision. The stone bridge itself demands respect – its cobblestones become glassy and unpredictable in morning dew. Cross at walking pace or risk an audience for your embarrassment. Park in the northern lot where security cameras monitor the bikes, worth the €2 fee compared to the free but isolated southern lot where local teenagers have been known to sit on unattended machines.
The Pyrenean Ascent
The real test begins as we approach the Pyrenees. The tarmac gives way to gravel tracks that switch back and forth across the face of mountains older than human memory. Our GPS coordinates mark the start of the infamous GR-11 hiking trail, which we'll parallel on ancient shepherds' paths now repurposed for two wheels. The air thins noticeably as we climb, the BMW's engine automatically adjusting its fuel mixture to compensate for the altitude.
Rider's Note: The unmarked turnoff at N42°38'17.2" E1°12'46.8" separates the tourists from the travelers. This access point to the gravel track system isn't on most GPS units and requires a local's knowledge – or our coordinates. The surface transforms from hard-packed clay to loose baseball-sized rocks without warning, demanding instantaneous suspension adjustments. Carry an extra clutch cable; three riders in our group snapped theirs on the jagged rock outcroppings that appear like sentinels around blind corners. The rock face at kilometer 87 has claimed countless panniers – approach in first gear or walk your bike through this 30-meter gauntlet of protruding stone teeth.
Near the Col du Pourtalet, at 1,794 meters, the view opens up like a revelation. France lies to the north, Spain to the south, and all around us, peaks pierce the clouds like nature's cathedral spires. The temperature has dropped twenty degrees since morning, and patches of snow still cling to the shadowed couloirs despite the summer season. Here, the wind speaks in ancient tongues, whistling through rock formations carved by glaciers long since retreated.
Rider's Note: The microclimate at Pourtalet creates weather systems visible in real-time – you can actually watch storm fronts collide and battle for dominance across the valley. Your bike's thermometer will register a 15°C drop within 200 meters of riding, demanding immediate layering adjustments to avoid hypothermia. The refuge hut at the summit offers salvation during sudden storms – its iron stove has saved countless riders caught in the mountain's mercurial mood shifts. The eastern approach features an unmarked gravel road used by local shepherds that saves 45 minutes compared to the main route, but contains three water crossings that become impassable after even light rainfall. The stone shepherd's hut at coordinates N42°48'17.3" W0°24'58.9" offers emergency shelter with a rainwater collection system that's maintained by a brotherhood of European adventure riders – leave it better than you found it.
The High Desert Plains
Descending from the Pyrenees into Aragón, the landscape transforms dramatically. The lush mountain vegetation gives way to ochre-colored steppes that stretch to the horizon like a Spanish Arizona. Our tires kick up rooster tails of dust as we navigate the Bardenas Reales, a desert moonscape where centuries of wind and rain have sculpted the clay and sandstone into forms that seem more science fiction than reality.
Rider's Note: The Bardenas demand respect and preparation – there's no cellular coverage across 90% of this terrain, and summer temperatures regularly exceed 40°C. The clay surface transforms from concrete-hard to axle-deep mud within minutes of rainfall. The formations locally known as "Las Chimeneas" create natural wind tunnels that have knocked fully-loaded GS bikes onto their sides without warning – approach these narrow passages in a lower gear than seems necessary, with your weight forward over the tank. The abandoned shepherd's stone house at coordinates N42°11'42.8" W1°31'14.3" offers the only reliable shade for 30 kilometers, but beware the territorial eagle pair that nests in the collapsed roof trusses – they've drawn blood from photographers who lingered too long.
The GPS shows nothing but blank space between waypoints here, but ancient paths connect forgotten villages where time moves at the pace of shadows crossing sundials. In Uncastillo, we rest in the shade of a 12th-century church, its stones still bearing the chisel marks of long-dead masons. The local wine is as dark as engine oil and twice as potent, served with jamón that melts on the tongue like butter.
Rider's Note: The hostel at Calle del Rey 23 caters specifically to motorcycle travelers – the owner, Eduardo, rode around Africa on a Yamaha XT500 in 1978 and has the mechanical knowledge to prove it. His workshop in the converted stable has saved countless journeys from premature endings. The narrow alleyway approaching the main square contains irregular stone channels that become invisible in certain afternoon light conditions – they've trapped many a sidestand and toppled bikes. The town's fuel station often runs dry by mid-afternoon; arrive before noon or carry extra. The wine cellar beneath Bar Navarro offers tastings of unfiltered local vintages never exported beyond the village boundaries – approach with caution, as the 17% alcohol content has ended riding days prematurely for unwary travelers.
The Sierra Nevada's Challenge
The final leg of our journey takes us south toward Granada, where the Sierra Nevada presents a different kind of challenge. These roads were built for modern sport bikes, but our laden adventure machines handle them with surprising grace. The asphalt clings to the mountainsides like a black ribbon, each corner revealing new vistas of snow-capped peaks and valleys dotted with white pueblos.
Rider's Note: The A-395 ascent contains the infamous "Siete Revueltas" (Seven Switchbacks) section that changes character completely between morning and afternoon as the thermal expansion of the asphalt transforms the grip coefficients. Morning riders encounter a glass-smooth surface that turns greasy and unpredictable by 2 PM as surface temperatures exceed 50°C. The viewpoint at kilometer marker 23 suffers from tour bus congestion between 10 AM and 4 PM – arrive at dawn to have this spectacular panorama to yourself. The off-road track beginning behind the abandoned ski rental shop at coordinates N37°07'23.6" W3°22'47.9" offers an alternate route unknown to tourist traffic, but requires navigation across three unmarked water crossings that reflect the snowmelt cycles – passable before noon, potentially impassable thereafter.
The stone refuge hut at 2,100 meters offers emergency shelter during the sudden electrical storms that materialize without warning between June and August. Its caretaker, Antonio, has spent 40 summers here and maintains a handwritten log of motorcycle travelers stretching back to 1981 – add your name to this paper database of adventurers. The thermal inversion layer that forms at dawn creates a sea of clouds below you, an otherworldly experience of riding above the clouds while remaining firmly on earth.
As sunset approaches, the Alhambra appears on its hilltop perch, its red walls glowing like hot metal in the dying light. We've crossed a country, from sea level to snow line and back again, experiencing Spain not as tourists but as travelers, every kilometer earned through skill and determination.
Rider's Note: The approach to Granada through the Cuesta del Caidero offers the most dramatic first glimpse of the Alhambra, but local traffic makes this technical descent hazardous between 4-7 PM. The alternative route through the Sacromonte quarter requires navigating cobblestone streets with unpredictable spacing designed for horse-drawn carts, not adventure bikes – approach in first gear with controlled engine braking rather than relying on potentially skidding brakes. The Albaicín quarter's narrow passages contain numerous unmarked one-way restrictions enforced by cameras – the €200 fines arrive weeks after your return home. The motorcycle parking area at Plaza Nueva offers secured overnight storage with CCTV coverage for €5/night, a bargain compared to the unsecured hotel parking options. The mechanical sympathy of Antonio's workshop on Calle Elvira has saved countless journeys – his facility with BMW hexhead electronics borders on the supernatural.
Key Waypoints
1. Barcelona (Start) - N41°23'24.0" E2°10'12.0"
- Hidden Gem: The pre-dawn gathering of local riders at Tibidabo overlook offers crucial route intelligence and potential riding companions.
2. Besalú - N42°12'00.0" E2°42'00.0"
- Technical Challenge: The limestone bridge approach becomes treacherously slick after even light morning dew – approach at walking pace.
3. Col du Pourtalet - N42°48'00.0" W0°25'12.0"
- Survival Tip: The stone refuge hut stocks emergency supplies maintained by a brotherhood of European adventure riders – respect the honesty payment system.
4. Bardenas Reales - N42°12'00.0" W1°28'48.0"
- Critical Knowledge: Surface conditions transform from concrete-hard to axle-deep mud within minutes of rainfall – monitor the western horizon constantly for approaching weather systems.
5. Uncastillo - N42°21'36.0" W1°08'24.0"
- Local Secret: The underground bodega at Calle Mayor 7 offers motorcycle parking in a 12th-century stone cellar, protecting machines from both elements and curious hands.
6. Granada (End) - N37°10'48.0" W3°36'00.0"
- Rider's Reward: The rooftop terrace at Hotel Carmen offers secure motorcycle visibility from your table while you sample 14 local varieties of sherry with the Alhambra illuminated before you.
The journey covers approximately 1,200 kilometers, combining tarmac (70%) and off-road sections (30%), with elevation changes from sea level to 2,500 meters. Best undertaken between May and September to avoid snow in the high passes, the route requires a minimum of 5-7 days to fully appreciate the diverse terrain and cultural stops along the way.
Final Rider's Note: This route demands mechanical sympathy and technical riding competence – it's not for novices or the faint-hearted. Your machine will return with honorable scars and your riding abilities forever transformed by terrain that teaches more in a week than years of predictable asphalt could impart. The cellular coverage map resembles Swiss cheese – download offline navigation before departure and carry a satellite communicator for emergencies. Your reward comes in moments impossibly perfect – the sensation of your tires breaking traction slightly on ancient Roman cobblestones as your motorcycle momentarily dances across centuries, the taste of wine shared with shepherds whose families have occupied the same stone houses since before Columbus sailed, and the profound mechanical bond formed between rider and machine when both are tested against landscapes that demand nothing less than complete focus and mutual respect.
